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Scottish anchorages
Craighouse
To me, and anyone else who has been in the Scottish Islands Peaks Race, this is a special place where the fleet of yachts come in for the second stop to release their runners over three of the Paps of Jura. I used to do this run myself once, so Craighouse means pain to me. Later I just did the sailing bit, but even that can be a big pain if there is no wind and lots of rowing. Now I have retired from such frivolity. During the race, a rush in by dinghy to set the runners off and then back to sort out the boat and have a rest, and for the runners the agony getting back along the road after the Paps doesn't allow for much looking about. But, when cruising there is a lot to do, as well as just sit in the boat at anchor, or on one of the now 16 moorings (pay at the hotel), and admire the view of the Paps as clouds swirl about their tops or the sun sets behind them.
This would not be too bad a place to pick up and drop off crew because there is a passenger ferry from Tayvallich on the mainland in summer – indeed you can get here from Edinburgh in a total of about five hours, including a coffee stop in Tayvallich. But the ferry only survives on a wing and a prayer, plus a subsidy.
On a quiet sunny day, perch on the wall overlooking the small harbour (a Telford design built in 1812), eat an ice cream from the nearby Jura Community Shop (early 19th Century), gaze at the mountains of Arran over Kintyre, and let the children play on the beach – it may be small and rather scrappy but the children love it nonetheless. But perhaps it is a touch too noisy hereabouts in the summer holidays when there seem to be an amazing number of boats coming and going, including noisy speed boats in good weather. There has been a bit of a cloud over its viability, but in 2012 it was taken over by the Isle of Jura Development Trust who employ a shop manager, and in 2013 they got over half a million from the Big Lottery Fund to help with restoration and rebuilding. Make sure you do your bit and buy your stores there to benefit the local community, they need your custom much more than Tesco does.
The distillery founded in 1810 makes a pleasant ensemble with the surrounding buildings. The tacked-on manager's house looks like a small castle. There are tours and - of course - a shop for buying you know what (ph 01496 820 385). Do not be misled by the 'standing stone across the road in the small car park - it is a fake erected by the distillery in 2011.
The distillery....
The Antlers (ph 01496 820 496) is a bring your own bottle bistro and restaurant in a very nicely restored building. There have been favourable reports, the coffee and cake are certainly good, and there are some crafty things to peruse and buy. In 2011 it was up for sale and it too has now been taken on by the Isle Jura Development Trust who seem determined to keep it going - so use it!
The walk north through the village is pleasant. The church seems to have a semi-permanent collection of old photographs of Jura people. The building was started in the late 18th Century but has had several waves of alterations since then. It is plain, calm and Scottish. There is a very useful playground just next to the it.
A bit further north, and up the hill a bit, there is an old village called Keils with the remains of crofting houses, some rescued by - I guess - incomers. Further up still is Cill Earnadil, an atmospheric graveyard, which is tricky to find. Here there is a serene view across the Sound of Jura to Kintyre. The birdsong and the sound of a rushing burn must drown out the minister's words. A good last resting place if only one was around to enjoy it. Unfortunately there is a ghastly concrete extension with horrible railings, particularly vile juxtaposed against the beautiful old rubble walls.
You can hire bikes (ph 07092 820 385), walk to or take the bus to Jura House and gardens which are said to be excellent (but they are currently closed by the newish Australian owner of the estate, a hedge fund manager from London, which is bad news indeed, for garden lovers if not for golfers - he is now building a private golf course).
The Jura Hotel built in 1834 has 17 now mostly refurbished rooms, a bar (still no real real ale available, it doesn't keep as well as that pressurised stuff, so keep asking for it and one day you may strike lucky), showers round the back (refurbished in 2014), and meals both in the bar and the restaurant - try the ultra fresh langoustines (ph 01496 820 243). It is all rather cosy with lovely views from the sitting and dining rooms, and the bar, and from some of the bedrooms too - with tropical trees in the foreground as well as the occasional stag at night time. It was bought by friends in May 2010 and so - by definition - it will be a success! Make sure to book if you want to eat in the dining room.
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Palm trees outside the Jura Hotel
Second stop on the Scottish Islands Peaks Race, dropping off the runners
The playpark and church
The single malt